What a whirlwind!
We flew to Bakersfield (delightful, just delightful) on Wed, drove to Ray's Den Motel (phenomenal, just phenomenal) and arrived around 2am.
We left early the next morning, but had to wait to pick up the permit, some jetboil fuel, and get breakfast (from a cafe) and lunch, from (subway).
We drove to Shepard Pass Trail Head around 10:00 and arrived around 10:40am. Really bumby, the car was skidding around like crazy, but we made it! I found a nalgene bottle in the parking lot, time to hydrate and get up those switchbacks.
We arrived at the top of the switchbacks at 1:20pm, ready for a our subway sandwiches. We got to the top just as a storm rolled in, we were able to get settled under a tree and watch the lightning striking down across from us, right in front of Mt. Williamson! No way would we be able to summit in that weather. But thankfully, we were only just beginning.
As the storm passed through,and we finished our subway, we got up and started going, over the series of saddles, and then down down down (something like 800 feet) to the Mahogany Flat creek crossing (2:45). We got some water and then started the trudge up to Anvil Camp, for me, this was the most tedious part, it was hot, and my neglected heels which I failed to address now had blisters the size of Loonies on them (5:10). The weather had cleared up, it was a beautiful night, but we went to sleep with the sound of loud wind coming down from the pass.
Next day, started at 8:00am, we were at the base of Pass ramp at 8:50, at the pass at 9:50.
From the pass to our camp took another 1:10 minutes, even though its less than a mile away. The scree puzzle had begun, we got a taste of it going down into the Williamson Bowl. We camped next to a lake (even though we were technically too close) because there was a cleared flat space with wind guard. There were some otehr spots too which were empty when we got there, but filled up (1 or 2 other groups) over the course of the day. There are little shrimpy crabs in the water, but my iodine killed them. Still kosher?
We ate launch and lunched out summit bid, wait, reverse that, at 11:45. We crossed the bowl (some fun climbing, Tess was doing good) and arrived underneath the "black spot." It was a clear landmark, and we had no trouble finding the right chute. We started off to the right of the black spot, which meant wed have to traverse left to the chute, this was a mistake. We should have traversed lower on flat ground, and then started up, even though we were slightly higher up choosing the right side when we started. WE made it to the base of the chute at 12:50 and crawled up to the chimney at 3:40. This was hard going, and the altitude played a role, but neither of us were gasping for air (in fact, neither of us felt any symptoms of AMS, we had taken acetazolomide (Diamox), and felt great.
Chim chim charoo, chim chim charee. I heard the chimney described as an Easter Sierras Class 3 (who the hell knows what that means?). It looked harder than I expected, it didnt have a lot of footholds at the bottom. Tess tried the first part several times before deciding that it was not a good idea to head up. ultimately, a wise decision. After all that work, Tess made a difficult but prudent choice. She would remain as the base while Nu went up.
At the top of the chimney, theres a big summit plateau, immediately on the other side are 2 subsidiary peaks of Mt. W. SUBSIDIARY, dont be a dummy like me, run across the plateau, slide down the first peak, and then try to climb the second one. While I was hangin on, doing a V3/V4 boudlering move, I knew I was not where I was supposed to be, I remembered the trail description, and realized I shouldve turned right! not gone straight! What a dummy, or maybe the altitude was having its effect. On the way up, jumping from rock to rock, I based my shin. It hurt! At 4:35, I was on the summit, still plenty of light, I could see Tyndall and Whitney and even New York City (only kidding).
At 6:20 we were at the bottom of the ramp, at 7:30 we were back in camp. The descent through the scree sucked, definitely the low point. We were both wiped out and ready for some food and mint tead. We decided Tyndall was not going to happen.
Next day we left at 9:20 am, Shep Pass at 10:30, Anvil Camp at noon, Mah Flat Creek crossing at 1:50, 3:10 top of switch backs, 4:40 the creek at the base of the switchbacks (we counted 53 ), and the outhouse next to the parking lot around 5:00. We bought some sierra nevadas, showered at Rays, and then went into the town to get some food.
The highlight of the trip for me was singing El Paso at the bar. Tess sang too (Boots were made for walking) and (Respect). The dj was wonderful. We tipped him 5 bucks. Next day we woke up real early, drove to Bakersfield, and took off.
Thus concluded Tess and Nus good times in the High Sierra. But they will be back. Hasta Las Cumbres!